Saturday, November 18, 2006

Making a Rosemary Topiary

Topiary is the art of trimming and training shrubs or trees into ornamental shapes. For example, you can grow and train a rosemary plant into a formal standard (the top is shaped into a perfect globe (or globes) that is (are) held on a single stem). To start, you need a young potted plant with an unpinched leader, scissors, stakes, ties, and patience.  If you live in a warm climate like Santa Barbara, CA, you can create a nice topiary in a year, but if you live in Nebraska or Indiana, where the plant has to live indoors for 5 months per year, you can count on at least two years.

                        

    Unpruned Rosemary         Single Ball Standard            
Single Ball Standard
(What we sell - 2 years old)     (at least one more year)      
     (at least one more year)       

In the first stage, you want the plant to grow straight up to the desired height, which can bee anywhere from 12" to 36".  Place a stake beside the plant, and tie the plant along the stake for support. Allow the tip shoot of the plant to develop, by cutting off any wild side shoots that start to grow. Allow leaves to stay on the trunk. Check the ties often so they don't girdle or injure the growing stem. Check also for mealybugs that like to hide around the ties. Turn your plant frequently so each side receives adequate light and it grows evenly. Feed your topiary every four or five waterings during active growth with a 15-30-15 liquid fertilizer for houseplants.  (If you buy a an unpruned rosemary from us, the above steps have already already been done.)

The next stage is forming the top of the plant to the desired shape. Before you pinch the growing shoot tip for the first time, think of the finished look you want your plant to have. Consider leaf size and rate of growth. Where do you plan to display your topiary and what kind of container will it live in? You may want to allow the plant to grow even taller. Do you want a one-ball, two-ball or three-ball standard? Perhaps you want a pyramid or a Christmas Tree-shaped tope? When you have determined these, pinch out the tip of the trunk, and strip the leaves off of the main trunk where you are sure you don't want them. Allow appropriate, correctly spaced branches to develop. The trunk will elongate a bit as it matures and thickens. Keep turning your topiary in the light so that it grows evenly.

                    
      Triple Ball and Double Ball Standard                Short Single Ball Tope
             (at least two more years)                                (at least one more year)

Now comes the real art of topiary. You have to keep in mind the shape you want the plant to take and train the plant through careful tip pinching. Pinch tips about every 2 inches. Pinch or cut at nodes so that new shoots will grow in the direction you want. You also want to encourage width and branching at the base of the "head." Top growth will naturally develop faster, so keep upward growing shoots trimmed down. As you become aware of growth habits and observe the results of careful pruning, you will better be able to train the topiary to the finished shape you want. During indoor growing periods you will need to be conscientious about providing rosemary with the conditions it needs - most importantly adequate ambient humidity and reasonable temps. I have seen many reasonably experienced gardeners loose rosemarys in February to powdery mildew - directly the result of not taking proper care of the plants.

Many herbs can be used for topiary, in addition to rosemary. French lavender, scented geraniums, bay laurel and lemon eucalyptus, for example. The herbs you choose will depend on the topiary shapes you want to create, so be creative and have fun!

Partially borrowed from:"Topiary Herb Plants" in The Virginia Creeper, Volume 1, Number 2, Virginia State University.]

Papa Geno

Thursday, November 09, 2006

So, what is a Troll Garden®?

Troll Gardens® is a registered trademark of Papa Geno’s Herb Farm/Prairie Home Perennials, and will soon have its own website.  This concept been in the works for a number of years, and these tiny trees, plants and gardens are the result of a lot of work on the part of several people.  This is “small space gardening” taken about as far as one can take it. We have identified almost 100 species/varieties of dwarf and miniature trees and shrubs and over 100 tiny perennials and grasses that are being used to create our Troll Gardens®?   



                   

             


Trees that never
get more than 12” tall, 6” shrubs, flowering perennials 3” tall , hostas that top out at 2 inches, miniature irises, dwarf daylilies and more.  These are not bonsais, although some of the trees could be used as such.  These are totally natural plants and trees that you don’t have to spend a lot of time fussing over.  They are not “house plants” in the ordinary sense of the word, although they can be brought indoors for limited periods of time to grace a dining table. Ideally they will spend most of the year outside in a spot sheltered from drying winds and sub zero temperatures.


         

The trees and shrubs in the Troll Gardens® Collections are not seedlings or “babies” of standard-sized trees.  These are all genetically miniature or dwarf, and very slow growing. The trees just above are in 4" pots and will pprobably no more than double in size in five years.  A ‘miniature’ tree will grow 1-3” per year and reach maturity at perhaps 12” after ten years.  A ‘dwarf’ tree will add 1-6” per year and will max out at 18-24” after 10-15 years. 

The trees and shrubs are shipped in 4” or 4.5” pots, and most of the perennials are shipped in 2.5” x 3.5” pots.  The trees and shrubs will already be 4-5 years old when you get them, and the perennials will be 6 –12 months old.  They can remain in their shipping pots for some time (2 weeks to 2 months, depending on the species), but they will do better if they are transplanted into their new “home” as soon as possible. Most of these little plants will do wonderfully in troughs or other containers, or if you have the right spot, will do fine planted directly in the ground.

Generally speaking, in Zones 8 -10 they can be planted outside, in the ground, almost any time of year with appropriate care given to provide shade from Phoenix sun and shelter from the Texas wind. In Zones 5-7 it is usually safe to plant them outside between March and October if you treat them as you would any other hardy perennial. Some will require more shade than others, and those are so identified. Container growing requires a different kind of attention. If you don’t have an enclosed porch or chilly basement or garage where they can spend the coldest part of the winter, they should be placed in a corner of the yard and covered with leaves. All are capable of surviving temperatures down to 10 degrees F, but they will not survive if they are subjected to repeated freezing and thawing (like many perennials.)

Between November and March these Troll Gardens® will be coming to you from a greenhouse that is kept at 40 degrees F, so you can’t unpack the shipping carton and place the plants and trees in a spot that is either too cold or too warm.  They need to be gradually acclimated to whatever conditions their new “home” will be. And their new home should not be a typical American house with the thermostat set at 70 F. They require some special care at the beginning, but their beauty more than compensates for any extra efforts on the gardener’s part.  Once they are established, they will provide ample enjoyment – with very little fuss – for many years.

Detailed growing instructions accompany each order shipped.

Papa Geno