Topiary is the art of trimming and training shrubs or trees into ornamental shapes. For example, you can grow and train a rosemary plant into a formal standard (the top is shaped into a perfect globe (or globes) that is (are) held on a single stem). To start, you need a young potted plant with an unpinched leader, scissors, stakes, ties, and patience.  If you live in a warm climate like Santa Barbara, CA, you can create a nice topiary in a year, but if you live in Nebraska or Indiana, where the plant has to live indoors for 5 months per year, you can count on at least two years.

 

               

         Size that we sell               One year old                        18 months old

In the first stage, you want the plant to grow straight up to the desired height, which can be anywhere from 12" to 36".  Place a stake beside the plant, and tie the plant along the stake for support. Allow the tip shoot of the plant to develop, by cutting off any wild side shoots that start to grow. Allow leaves to stay on the trunk. Check the ties often so they don't girdle or injure the growing stem. Check also for mealybugs that like to hide around the ties. Turn your plant frequently so each side receives adequate light and it grows evenly. Feed your topiary every four or five waterings during active growth with a 15-30-15 liquid fertilizer for houseplants.  (If you buy a an unpruned rosemary from us, the above steps have already already been done.)

The next stage is forming the top of the plant to the desired shape. Before you pinch the growing shoot tip for the first time, think of the finished look you want your plant to have. Consider leaf size and rate of growth. Where do you plan to display your topiary and what kind of container will it live in? You may want to allow the plant to grow even taller. Do you want a one-ball, two-ball or three-ball standard? Perhaps you want a pyramid or a Christmas Tree-shaped tope? When you have determined these, pinch out the tip of the trunk, and strip the leaves off of the main trunk where you are sure you don't want them. Allow appropriate, correctly spaced branches to develop. The trunk will elongate a bit as it matures and thickens. Keep turning your topiary in the light so that it grows evenly.

                    
      Triple Ball and Double Ball Standard                Short Single Ball Tope
             (at least two more years)                                (at least one more year)

Now comes the real art of topiary. You have to keep in mind the shape you want the plant to take and train the plant through careful tip pinching. Pinch tips about every 2 inches. Pinch or cut at nodes so that new shoots will grow in the direction you want. You also want to encourage width and branching at the base of the "head." Top growth will naturally develop faster, so keep upward growing shoots trimmed down. As you become aware of growth habits and observe the results of careful pruning, you will better be able to train the topiary to the finished shape you want. During indoor growing periods you will need to be conscientious about providing rosemary with the conditions it needs - most importantly adequate ambient humidity and reasonable temps. I have seen many reasonably experienced gardeners loose rosemarys in February to powdery mildew - directly the result of not taking proper care of the plants.

Many herbs can be used for topiary, in addition to rosemary. French lavender, scented geraniums, bay laurel and lemon eucalyptus, for example. The herbs you choose will depend on the topiary shapes you want to create, so be creative and have fun!

Partially borrowed from:"Topiary Herb Plants" in The Virginia Creeper, Volume 1, Number 2, Virginia State University.]

Hydrangea is a genus of about 70-75 species of flowering plants native to southern and eastern Asia  and North and South America. Most are shrubs 1-3 m tall, but some are small trees, and others lianas reaching up to 30 m by climbing up trees. They can be either deciduous or evergreen, though the widely cultivated temperate species are all deciduous.

                        
The flowers just above are "lacecap" hydrangeas - 'Nigra', 'Blue Lacecap' and 'Pink Lacecap'         

Hydrangea flowers are produced from early spring to late autumn; they grow in flower-heads at the ends of the stems. In many species, the flowerheads contain two types of flowers, small fertile flowers in the middle of the flowerhead, and large, sterile bract-like flowers in a ring around the edge of each flowerhead. Other species have all the flowers fertile and of the same size.

                         
The flowers just above are hydrangeas - 'Hobella', 'Homigo' and 'Nigra'        

In most species the flowers are white, but in some species (notably H. macrophylla), can be blue, red, pink, or purple. In these species the exact color often depends on the pH of the soil; acidic soils produce blue flowers, neutral soils produce very pale cream petals, and alkaline soils results in pink or purple. Hydrangeas are one of very few plants that accumulate aluminium. Aluminium is released from acidic soils, and in some species, forms complexes in the hydrangea flower giving them their blue colour.

                                     
The flowers just above are hydrangeas - 'Cardinal Red', 'Annabelle' and 'Nikko Blue'  

Hydrangeas are popular ornamental plants, grown for their large flowerheads, with Hydrangea macrophylla being by far the most widely grown with over 600 named cultivars, many selected to have only large sterile flowers in the flowerheads. Some are best pruned on an annual basis when the new leaf buds begin to appear. If not pruned regularly, the bush will become very 'leggy', growing upwards until the weight of the stems is greater than their strength, at which point the stems will sag down to the ground and possibly break. Other species only flower on 'old wood'. Thus new wood resulting from pruning will not produce flowers the following season.

For more botanical info, go to: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrangea

                                

The  images  just above are of Tardiva tree hydrangeas - 3 years and 2 years old.

About flower color
The bloom color of the hydrangeas will vary considerably due to the type of soil they are growing in. The blues are best in acid soil. The amount of aluminum available in the soil and the ability of a particular variety to absorb it will control the degree of blueness. The reds, and pinks enjoy an alkaline or neutral soil. The whites will stay white but usually enjoy the same conditions as the reds or pinks.

You'll need to raise the acidity of the soil to encourage "blueing" of the flowers. This can be done by soaking the soil around the plant several times at weekly intervals in the spring and again in the fall with aluminum sulfate. The aluminum sulfate should be applied at the rate of 1/4 ounce per gallon of water. Powder form can be worked in the soil but concentrations vary depending on the brand. Read the instructions on the box carefully before application.

Apply lime to lower the acidity of high acid soil to encourage pink to red blooms. The lime should be applied at a rate of one pound to every ten square feet of surface area once or twice a year until the desired color is obtained.

Please note that color correction takes some weeks or even months to occur, so you'll want to be patient. Rain, irrigation, and soil composition also affect the acidity of your soil.

The best time to plant hydrangeas depends on your local climate, but as a general rule of thumb you can plant in the spring after the last chance of frost. Planting in the fall or summer is also an option if you live in a more mild climate.  Most hydrangeas will be happiest  in a location sheltered from wind and hot afternoon sun.

Papa Geno

Topiary is the art of trimming and training shrubs or trees into ornamental shapes. For example, you can grow and train a rosemary plant into a formal standard (the top is shaped into a perfect globe (or globes) that is (are) held on a single stem). To start, you need a young potted plant with an unpinched leader, scissors, stakes, ties, and patience.  If you live in a warm climate like Santa Barbara, CA, you can create a nice topiary in a year, but if you live in Nebraska or Indiana, where the plant has to live indoors for 5 months per year, you can count on at least two years.

                        

    Unpruned Rosemary         Single Ball Standard             Single Ball Standard
(What we sell - 2 years old)     (at least one more year)           (at least one more year)       

In the first stage, you want the plant to grow straight up to the desired height, which can bee anywhere from 12" to 36".  Place a stake beside the plant, and tie the plant along the stake for support. Allow the tip shoot of the plant to develop, by cutting off any wild side shoots that start to grow. Allow leaves to stay on the trunk. Check the ties often so they don't girdle or injure the growing stem. Check also for mealybugs that like to hide around the ties. Turn your plant frequently so each side receives adequate light and it grows evenly. Feed your topiary every four or five waterings during active growth with a 15-30-15 liquid fertilizer for houseplants.  (If you buy a an unpruned rosemary from us, the above steps have already already been done.)

The next stage is forming the top of the plant to the desired shape. Before you pinch the growing shoot tip for the first time, think of the finished look you want your plant to have. Consider leaf size and rate of growth. Where do you plan to display your topiary and what kind of container will it live in? You may want to allow the plant to grow even taller. Do you want a one-ball, two-ball or three-ball standard? Perhaps you want a pyramid or a Christmas Tree-shaped tope? When you have determined these, pinch out the tip of the trunk, and strip the leaves off of the main trunk where you are sure you don't want them. Allow appropriate, correctly spaced branches to develop. The trunk will elongate a bit as it matures and thickens. Keep turning your topiary in the light so that it grows evenly.

                    
      Triple Ball and Double Ball Standard                Short Single Ball Tope
             (at least two more years)                                (at least one more year)

Now comes the real art of topiary. You have to keep in mind the shape you want the plant to take and train the plant through careful tip pinching. Pinch tips about every 2 inches. Pinch or cut at nodes so that new shoots will grow in the direction you want. You also want to encourage width and branching at the base of the "head." Top growth will naturally develop faster, so keep upward growing shoots trimmed down. As you become aware of growth habits and observe the results of careful pruning, you will better be able to train the topiary to the finished shape you want. During indoor growing periods you will need to be conscientious about providing rosemary with the conditions it needs - most importantly adequate ambient humidity and reasonable temps. I have seen many reasonably experienced gardeners loose rosemarys in February to powdery mildew - directly the result of not taking proper care of the plants.

Many herbs can be used for topiary, in addition to rosemary. French lavender, scented geraniums, bay laurel and lemon eucalyptus, for example. The herbs you choose will depend on the topiary shapes you want to create, so be creative and have fun!

Partially borrowed from:"Topiary Herb Plants" in The Virginia Creeper, Volume 1, Number 2, Virginia State University.]

Papa Geno

Troll Gardens® is a registered trademark of Papa Geno’s Herb Farm/Prairie Home Perennials, and will soon have its own website.  This concept been in the works for a number of years, and these tiny trees, plants and gardens are the result of a lot of work on the part of several people.  This is “small space gardening” taken about as far as one can take it. We have identified almost 100 species/varieties of dwarf and miniature trees and shrubs and over 100 tiny perennials and grasses that are being used to create our Troll Gardens®?   

                   

             


Trees that never get more than 12” tall, 6” shrubs, flowering perennials 3” tall , hostas that top out at 2 inches, miniature irises, dwarf daylilies and more.  These are not bonsais, although some of the trees could be used as such.  These are totally natural plants and trees that you don’t have to spend a lot of time fussing over.  They are not “house plants” in the ordinary sense of the word, although they can be brought indoors for limited periods of time to grace a dining table. Ideally they will spend most of the year outside in a spot sheltered from drying winds and sub zero temperatures.

The trees and shrubs in the Troll Gardens® Collections are not seedlings or “babies” of standard-sized trees.  These are all genetically miniature or dwarf, and very slow growing. The trees just above are in 4" pots and will pprobably no more than double in size in five years.  A ‘miniature’ tree will grow 1-3” per year and reach maturity at perhaps 12” after ten years.  A ‘dwarf’ tree will add 1-6” per year and will max out at 18-24” after 10-15 years. 

The trees and shrubs are shipped in 4” or 4.5” pots, and most of the perennials are shipped in 2.5” x 3.5” pots.  The trees and shrubs will already be 4-5 years old when you get them, and the perennials will be 6 –12 months old.  They can remain in their shipping pots for some time (2 weeks to 2 months, depending on the species), but they will do better if they are transplanted into their new “home” as soon as possible. Most of these little plants will do wonderfully in troughs or other containers, or if you have the right spot, will do fine planted directly in the ground.

Generally speaking, in Zones 8 -10 they can be planted outside, in the ground, almost any time of year with appropriate care given to provide shade from Phoenix sun and shelter from the Texas wind. In Zones 5-7 it is usually safe to plant them outside between March and October if you treat them as you would any other hardy perennial. Some will require more shade than others, and those are so identified. Container growing requires a different kind of attention. If you don’t have an enclosed porch or chilly basement or garage where they can spend the coldest part of the winter, they should be placed in a corner of the yard and covered with leaves. All are capable of surviving temperatures down to 10 degrees F, but they will not survive if they are subjected to repeated freezing and thawing (like many perennials.)

Between November and March these Troll Gardens® will be coming to you from a greenhouse that is kept at 40 degrees F, so you can’t unpack the shipping carton and place the plants and trees in a spot that is either too cold or too warm.  They need to be gradually acclimated to whatever conditions their new “home” will be. And their new home should not be a typical American house with the thermostat set at 70 F. They require some special care at the beginning, but their beauty more than compensates for any extra efforts on the gardener’s part.  Once they are established, they will provide ample enjoyment – with very little fuss – for many years.

Detailed growing instructions accompany each order shipped.

Papa Geno

Heavily scented with white trumpeted flowers, the Paperwhite Narcissus is a joy. And, it's so easy to grow, too!

A native of Mediterannean Europe and Asia Minor, it is now grown around the world. Paperwhites are small members of the Narcissus family (Daffodils and Jonquils are larger family members). What Paperwhites lack in size, they make up for in fragrance and charm. For little flowers, they are big in the popularity department. These winter and spring blooming flowers are equally popular grown as an indoor houseplant. Growing them indoors adds bright cheery blooms and a sweet scent to an otherwise dreary winter 's day.

         

Paperwhite narcissus are one of the easiest bulbs to force for cut flowers or ornamental displays in the home from December to March. They can be forced without a chilling period. The paperwhites you get from me are already potted, and require only an occasional drink of water to bloom in time for the holidays, but if you want to find your own loose bulbs and  give it a shot, here is all you need to know.

To force paperwhites, fill a bulb pan with about one to two inches of potting soil, then position the bulbs in the soil so they are nearly touching each other with pointed end up. Add enough potting soil so that only the top half of the bulbs remain exposed, then water well.

Paperwhites can also be forced in shallow decorative containers with pebbles and water, or in water alone. Place the bulb pans or decorative containers in a bright, cool room until the shoots are one to two inches tall. Then move the pots to a warmer location. Bulbs started in a warm room have a tendency to become leggy and the leaves flop over. No fertilizer is needed to force paperwhites.

Paperwhites bloom four to eight weeks after potting. For a continuous show of color, start new pots of bulbs every couple of weeks throughout fall and winter.

Commercially, several types are available. Some cultivars (varieties) have pure white flowers while others have white perianths with light yellow cups. Paperwhites originate in the Mediterranean and are tender bulbs. Thus, they can be grown outside only in  Zones 8 to 11. Unless one lives in one of these zones, forced bulbs should be composted. Believe me - after 20 years of trying to get them to bloom again, I have given up.


Planting -- Paperwhites can be forced using 3- to 4-inch deep decorative containers that do not have drainage holes. To force the bulbs using this system:

   1. Place 1 to 2 inches of washed gravel or stones in the bottom of the container.
   2. Carefully, place the bulbs on the gravel or stones.
   3. Subsequently, place enough gravel or stones over or around the bulbs to hold them in place.

Watering -- Add just enough water to bring it to base of the bulbs and subsequently, maintain it at this level. Do not immerse the bulbs in water, only the basal (root) plate should be in water.


Planting -- Use a well-drained, pH 6 to 7, sterilized planting medium. Any width pot can be used; it depends on the number of bulbs to be forced. However, use a pot that is 3 to 4 inches deep, and plant the bulbs with the noses even or slightly below the rim of the pot.

Watering -- After planting, water the medium thoroughly. Then, keep it moist, but not soggy wet!


Temperature - Initially, use a 60 to 65 degree area in the home. When in flower, use the coolest area of the home.

Light -- Paperwhites will flower under any light conditions. However, for best results, initially place them in a window area with a southern exposure. When the plants begin to flower, remove them from direct sun-light and place plants in coolest area of the home. This helps to prolong the flowering of the plants.

Fertilization -- None is required for forcing.

Diseases and insects -- If healthy bulbs are purchased, no pests are generally encountered.

For more info, go to:   http://gardening.wsu.edu/column/12-03-00.htm

Papa Geno

Let's see if these Scented Geraniums show up better than those in the preceding entry.




Well, somewhat better, but still not ready for prime time.  Bear with me; we're working on this and will have something worthwhile fairly soon.  We have 145 different SGs documented with photos like this and we're anxious to be able to share them ASAP.

Papa Geno

Scented Geranium Special - # SP0568. This entry accompanies our email newsletter for May 22. Here are images for the Scented Geraniums featured: Lady Plymouth, Variegated Mint, Red-flowered Rose, Radula, Village Hill Oak, Lemon crispum.  Don't have room on the Specials page for them.









Hmmm. Those don't show up very well this small, but I guess it is better than nothing.   Back to the drawing board; gotta figure out a way (reasonable) to show these wonderful plants.


Papa Geno

 

                                        Next Weekend!

Yes, we are having our usual Mother's Day Open House and Plant Sale. 

As I posted here  a month or so ago, it will be May 11, 12, 13 and 14!  We're open Noon - 6:00 pm on Thursday and Friday, 10:00 - 4:00 on Saturday, and on Sunday - Mother's Day - we will be open from Noon until 4:00 pm. Free plants(s) with every purchase.

            

For those of you who haven't been here - we are nine miles east of Crete, NE, on Highway 33, or if you are coming from the east, we are five miles west of the intersection of Highways 77 and 33.  The link below will take you to a printable map. We are a few miles southwest of Lincoln, NE.

http://www.papagenos.com/map2006.pdf

                       

If the weather cooperates, the iris and peonies will be in bloom and we will have fresh cut peony flowers for sale.  But if you are coming only for cut flowers, please call first - 402-794-0400.

papa geno

Dr. Hwei-Yiing Johnson and I are working on a book about Scented Geraniums, and have been experimenting with various ways to present photos of the varieties.  Here are a couple of formats we are considering:





Comments?  Suggestions?

Papa Geno

1. If you are looking for basic info on Scented Geraniums, just enter the words in the little search box to the right. You will get a lot.

2. Below are some new Scented Geranium photos, hot out of the digital camera of Dr. Hwei-Yiing Johnson of Lincoln University, who is doing research on SGs here at our greenhouses.

    
                  Almond                             Attar of Roses                        Cinnamon

We grow these wonderful plants for the fragrance of the foliage, but as you can see, the flowers aren't too shabby either!

   
         Cody's Nutmeg                          Eucalyptus                              Filbert 

The flowers range from fairly large and fairly garish to very small and extremely delicate. 

     
           Frensham Lemon                 Godfrey's Pride              Joy Lucille, Varigated

All scented geraniums have five petals, but they can be very different from each other.

     
              Lady Mary                         Rogers Delight                   Upright Coconut

This is just the first installment of what we hope will be a comprehensive gallery of Scented Geranium photos - flowers, foliage shapes and sizes, as well as pics of mature plants. As far as we can tell, it has never been done in a systematic, comparative fashion.

                                  
                   Snowflake Rose                          Forgot the name of this one, but I'll get  
                                                                       it tomorrow when it is light enough to see                                                                             in the greenhouse.

        
We're in the process of photographing the leaves as well, and will be able to match the leaves with the flowers in the not-too-distant future.

Stay tuned.

Papa Geno

 
   

Twilight Scented Perennial Collection
The only thing more beautiful to plant in your garden than colorful perennials are fragrant colorful perennials. Plan to spend many evenings sitting outside enjoying the sights and scents of this collection.  It includes eight hardy, easy-to-grow  perennials, care guide and a planting diagram.

                

 Phlox paniculata ‘David’ - Grows to 4-5’ tall with bright white clusters of deliciously fragrant flowers in the summer. Mildew Resistant. 2002 Perennial of the Year

Hesperis matrionalis (Dame's Rocket) - An old-fashioned garden plant for the early summer border. Blooms in spring and then again in the fall.

Cimicifuga racemosa 'Fairy Candles'  - This plant will grow 4-6’ bottlebrush-like white flowers in July and August. Handsome broad leaves; very unusual and attractive plant. (Recently renamed as Actaea racemosa; common name - Black Cohosh or Snake Root.)

Dictamnus Purpureus (Gas Plant)  - This plant will grow 24-30” spikes of rosepink flowers in June and July.

Nepeta  ‘Blue Wonder’ - This Catnip has 15-18” stems that are loaded with bright green, serrated foliage and a profusion of spiky lavender blue flowers.

                  

Monarda didyma ‘Goldmelisse’ - Wonderfully aromatic foliage topped with fragrant, scarlet red flowers in June through September.  Very tough Beebalm.

Geranium macrorrhizum (Crane's Bill) - A popular, low growing (8-10” ) spreading groundcover with magenta-pink flowers in late spring.

Dianthus ‘Dad’s Favorite’ - Fringed, double white flowers with red petal edges and red centers bloom on compact stems typically rising to 10-12” tall in late spring to early summer.

These plants are all available individually on the website under the Genus name, in alphabetical order in the Perennials section.

Papa Geno

My large perennial collections are kind of difficult to present.  Lots of plants, care guides, planting diagrams (garden plans), etc.  Here are some details on one of them - the Prize-Winnng Perennial Garden. I have this kind of detail on all of them, of course, and would be happy to email them to you, or post them here.There are thousands of perennials, but each season only one can win "Perennial Plant of the Year." From the Perennial Plant Association (PPA), we have gathered prize winners from the last 15 years into our best-selling collection. Prize-Winning Perennials will fill your garden with spectacular color, year after year.

              Instructions for how to plant and a diagram of the garden included.

             

                                         Collection Includes: 10 Plants
·  Coreopsis ‘Moonbeam’          ·  Echinacea ‘Magnus’         ·  Coral Bells ‘Palace Purple’
·  Penstemon ‘Husker Red’    ·  Russian Sage Atriplicifolia    ·  Summer Phlox ‘David’
·  Rudbeckia ‘Goldsturm’       ·  Salvia ‘Mainacht’      ·  Pincushion Flower ‘Butterfly Blue’
                                        ·  Speedwell ‘Sunny Border Blue’

                                
Additional Information:
Coreopsis ‘Moonbeam’ - These wiry herbaceous bushes reach 15-18" high with pale yellow flowers from June to frost. 1992 Perennial Plant of the Year.
Echinacea ‘Magnus’ - Good rose pink form with non-drooping rays in summer. Grows 2-3’ tall. 1998 Perennial Plant of the Year.
Coral Bells ‘Palace Purple’ - Flower spikes adorn the tops of these 18-24" tall perennials.
Penstemon ‘Husker Red’ - This plant has dark Burgundy foliage with rose colored spikes 2-3' long, bearing small white bell flowers. 1996 Perennial of the Year.

               
 
Russian Sage Atriplicifolia - This perennial has tall, silver foliage bearing azure blue flowers that last all summer. 1995 Perennial of the Year
Summer Phlox ‘David’ - This plant has 4-5' tall bright white clusters of deliciously fragrant flowers in summer. Mildew Resistant. 2002 Perennial Plant of the Year.
Rudbeckia ‘Goldsturm’ - These large, deep yellow flowers have a bronzy, black cone center and form nicely branched 2’ foot plants. 1999 Perennial Plant of the Year.
Salvia ‘Mainacht’ - This perennial has beautiful 12-14" violet spikes. 1997 Perennial Plant of the Year.
Pincushion Flower ‘Butterfly Blue’ - These lavender-blue flowers bloom all summer on this compact 12-18" winner of the 2000 Perennial Plant of the Year.
Speedwell ‘Sunny Border Blue’ - This perennial has 18-20", sturdy herbaceous bushes with dark violet-blue spikes from June to hard frost. 1993 Perennial Plant of the Year.
                      
                                                                              Garden Plan Included
These plants are all available individually on the website under the Genus name, in alphabetical order in the Perennials section.

Papa Geno

Yes, we will have our usual Mother's Day Open House and Plant Sale.  I've been meaning to get this on the blog for about a month, but I never seem to remember it while I'm sitting at a computer.  (That memory stuff will happen to you too when you get older.  Count on it.)

Anyway - those of you close enough to get here mark your calendars - May 11, 12, 13 and 14!  We're open 10:00 am - 6:00 pm on Thursday and Friday, 10:00 - 4:00 on Saturday, and on Sunday - Mother's Day - we will be open from Noon until 4:00 pm.

For those of you who haven't been here - were are nine miles east of Crete, NE, on Highway 33, or if you are coming from the east, we are five miles west of the intersection of Highways 77 and 33.  I've got a map somewhere, and when I find it, I will post it here.  We are a few miles southwest of Lincoln.

Papa Geno

Basil Pesto Recipe

For most Americans “pesto” is nearly synonymous with basil, but in Italy (and in France where it is called “pistou”) it can mean a paste made from almost any herb/leaf veggie combination. Since almost all of my readers are Americans, I will stick with an American version.

                                                                     

2 cups fresh basil leaves, packed
1 cup flat Italian parsley leaves (not essential, but it makes a more robust pesto)
1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese (or old Romano; Reggiano is better)
1/2 cup olive oil (maybe a little more, depending on the moisture content of the Parmesan)
3 -5 tablespoons pine nuts or walnuts (or in a pinch, sunflower kernels or blanched almonds)
3-4 garlic cloves, finely minced

Preparation:

Place basil and parsley leaves in small batches in food processor chop well (do about 1 cup at a time). Add about 1/3 the nuts and garlic, blend again.
Add about 1/3 of the Parmesan cheese; blend while slowly adding about 1/3 of the olive oil, stopping to scrape down sides of container.
Process basil pesto it forms a thick smooth paste. Repeat until all ingredients are used, mix all batches together well.

I add smaller quantities of other fresh herbs as well if I’m in the mood.  Go easy on rosemary, Greek oregano and thyme; they can quickly overpower the essential basil flavor. Chopped marjoram is good, as are minced chives or garlic chives. Tarragon, sage, fennel and chervil do not work as well, to my taste.

Basil pesto keeps in refrigerator a week or so, or freeze for a few months. We always freeze some in ice cube trays, pop out the cubes and store in the freezer in Ziploc bags. Thus providing an instant supply of pesto all winter long.

My favorite uses: Tossed with hot pasta. A spoonful floating on top of tomato soup. Spread on thin whole wheat crackers and topped with sun-dried tomatoes for a quickie gourmet appetizer. Or simply a dollop on sliced tomatoes.

Experiment until you find the combo that is perfect for you.

---

Pico de Gallo salsa recipe

This is the only salsa we eat at our house from July until the last fresh tomato is used in October. Although it is perfect with Mexican food, we use it nearly every day with something. My favorite breakfast on the porch is scrambled eggs topped with couple tablespoons of pico de gallo. And for a quick and healthy wrap, a whole wheat tortilla with sliced turkey or chicken and pico de gallo is as good as it gets!

                                                                                 

 4 firm tomatoes, seeded and chopped
1/2 cup finely chopped onion
2 fresh chile peppers, mild or hot, seeded and finely chopped
2 tablespoons chopped red or yellow bell pepper
1 1/2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro (at least; depends on your preferences)
1 teaspoon lime juice
salt and pepper, to taste

PREPARATION:

Combine ingredients in a glass, ceramic or plastic bowl and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes before serving.

Makes about 2 cups

Does not really keep very well; tends to get watery after a couple of days. So we make it small quantities several times per week.

Enjoy!

Papa Geno

If you've come here looking for information about growing lavender, or cooking with lavender, you're in the right place.  Just scroll down to the entries for 1/20, 2/9, 2/12 and 2/14 of this year.  Or - to save some scrolling, you can click on the January and February archives in the right hand column of this page.

                                                
                                                  Mixed Provence-type lavenders (Lavindins)

We have many varieties of  lavender plants and lavender gift items on the website.

To see lavender plants, click here.

To see lavender wreaths and bouquets, click here.



Papa Geno

We will not be shipping live plants this week.

This will make no sense to most of my subscribers, but those of you who have plants on order and were expecting them this week need to know this.

We are having a terrible snow storm - one that is forecast to continue through Tuesday noon (March 20).  It is too cold to ship, even if our employees could get to work - which they can't. Everything scheduled to ship this week will get postponed until March 27 - 28.

                                       

Isn't springtime on the Great Plains wonderful? Almost no snow all winter, and then the mother of all winter storms on the first day of Spring!

Sorry!

Papa Geno

This is the first of two postings on Scented Geraniums  made originally on January 22

Scented Geraniums is the fastest growing category of our little business. In their native habitat of the Cape of Good Hope, the scented geraniums (pelargoniums) are perennial, but in most of the US, they are treated as annuals or tender perennials. The leaf form is highly variable and the leaf texture can be smooth, velvety or even sticky. It is the back of the leaf that releases scent for which each geranium is named. I have personal experience with about 150 named varieties, but I am sure that there are others which I do not know.

Cultivation: Scented geraniums are well suited for growing in containers, but can also be planted in the ground. They thrive in sunny location in evenly moist soil. They are occasionally grown from seed but do better from rooted cuttings. Water them well several hours before taking cuttings. Cut “slips” 3 to 5 inches long with a very sharp knife or nurseryman’s clippers, sterilized with alcohol. The best cuttings are from a stem that “snaps.” Cut below an internode at an angle and remove lower leaves and stipules. Lay the cuttings out for 24 hours to “callus.” This stimulates the growth of new cells on the wound. Filtered light, a dry atmosphere, and no more than 70oF assures the best callusing. Placing cuttings in a frost-free refrigerator for 12-to 36 hours assures good callusing. It is not necessary to use a rooting hormone on geraniums. However, if you are going to root them in sand or soil, the fungicide contained in rooting compound may prove helpful. Stick the callused cuttings upright into the soil medium. Put this in a warm place in filtered light. In two weeks or so the cuttings will develop roots. Certain varieties do better in a rich loam as opposed to ordinary potting soil: Mint (Tomentosum), apple, apricot, strawberry, Mabel Grey. Transplant to garden if desired, adding soil amendments as necessary. Remove any leaves as they yellow.

History: These geraniums (pelargoniums) are grown for the scent of their leaves as opposed to their flowers. Native to the Cape of Good Hope, they were first introduced into Europe in the early 1600s. And by the late 1800s there were over 150 varieties described in American catalogs. In their native habitat and parts of the south, these geraniums are perennials. In most of the country, they are treated as annuals or tender perennials. Some can reach a height of four feet and the scents range from rose, pine, mint, fruity and spicy. Flowers are small. Other uses are potpourri, paper making and body care products.

Using scented geraniums

Obviously, scented geraniums are a diverse group, so it's not surprising that their uses as diverse as well. Here are some suggestions:

• Plant three of the smaller varieties in ceramic pots on a windowsill.
• Fill a large clay pot with a specimen plant of Lemon Rose on the patio.
• Combine them with flowers in a whiskey barrel.
• Tuck a mid-sized Peppermint into a shady nook in the garden.
• Plant a row of pruned Lemon Crispum as a border.
• Place a matched pair of standards or topiaries at the front door.
• Use them as backdrops or foundation plantings.

Combine them with vinca vine as an elegant hanging basket. Your imagination is the only limit, but remember to place them, indoors or outside, where you will be able to touch them and enjoy their fragrance. There are myriad uses for the fragant and flavorful foliage of scented geraniums. for some suggestions.

Culinary Uses:
Not all scented geraniums have tastes that complement cooking. Recipes call for either rose, lemon, or mint. Most often their flavors are infused into the dish and they are removed and discarded before serving, although fresh leaves can be used as a decorative garnish. The leaves are used fresh. Scenteds are typically used in sweet dishes. Rose varieties add a delicate but stimulating flavor to sugar which is then used in baked goods or to sweeten teas. Stack clean, dry leaves in a large canister between 1 inch layers of sugar. Place the canister in a warm spot for two to four weeks, and then sift out the leaves. Some cooks recommend first bruising the leaves to impart more flavor. The sugar can be substituted for all or part of the plain sugar called for in recipes for white cakes or icings. Small rose- or lemon scented leaves can also be candied by dipping them in egg white and coating them with sugar to create impressive cake decorations. Dry them on a rack before using. The leaves can be arranged in the bottom of a lined or buttered baking pan and pouring cake batter over them. Jellies flavored with rose scenteds can be used as a filling for sponge- or angel-food cake layers. Apple and crab-apple jellies are most commonly used for this purpose.

Other uses include fruit punches, wine cups, ice cream and sorbets. Use lemon and rose scented geraniums in sweet vinegar recipes, they combine especially well with lemon verbena, lemon basil and mints.

Scented Geranium Jelly

4 lbs cooking apples

3 1/2 cups water

White or preserving sugar

Juice of 2 lemons

15 scented geranium leaves

Chop the apples roughly, leaving the skin, stalk and pips. Put in a large pan with the water and simmer until soft. Strain for several hours through a jelly bag or muslin; do not squeeze the fruit pulp through or the jelly will be cloudy. Measure the juice into a preserving pan and for every 2 cups of juice add 1 pound of sugar. Add the lemon juice and the geranium leaves. Stir over a low heat to dissolve the sugar, then boil rapidly until set, for about 10 minutes. Quickly remove the leaves and pour into clean, warm jars. Cover the jars while the mixture is still hot.

My thanks to Maureen Rogers at the Herb Growing and Marketing Network for part of the above content.  See next Scented Geranium posting on this blog for additional information about caring for them.

If you are really interested in SGs, I know of one good book – Knowing, Growing and Enjoying Scented Geraniums by Jim Becker and Faye Brawner.  It is available both new and used on Amazon.com as I write this. (January 2006).

Click here to see our 140 varieties of Scented Geraniums.

Papa Geno

This is a repeat of the posting I made on January 22, so that the reader coming from my newsletter doesn't have to dig around in the archives. 

Outdoor growing - Scented geraniums (Pelargoniums) are a great addition to any area of your garden. We've used them in beds with brightly colored annuals like marigolds and zinnias, combined with standard geraniums, and in beds dedicated solely to scented geraniums. With few exceptions they need 5-6 hours of direct sun per day. Peppermint (and a couple of other "fuzzy" varieties) can get sunburned, and love light shade. At least a dozen varieties make attractive hanging baskets, and we use several varieties for creating topiaries and espaliers.

 

Growing scented geraniums indoors - Scented geraniums are not picky about temperature, but prefer to be cooler than standard geraniums. A range of 55 to 70 ° F is ideal. If you have them in a south window, sheer undercurtains are the perfect screen to prevent sunburn in summer.

Planting your scented geraniums
Any pot that provides good drainage will do, but we think unglazed clay (terra cotta) is a natural complement to these plants. Start with a 5" or 6" pot, and use a light commercial potting mix, or make your own using lots of perlite and/or sand. These plants are indigenous to a cool, semi-desert area and do not like wet feet, so water them well, and then let them dry out before watering again. In warmer areas (Zones 7-10), you may plant them outdoors after a period of acclimatization.

Scented geranium care tips
Give your geranium at least four hours of direct sunlight a day. Night temperatures should be 50° to 65°; day temperatures are ideally 68° to 72°. Allow the soil to dry out somewhat between thorough waterings. Fertilize every two weeks from March through October and once per month during the rest of the year. Pinch the tips of plants that are not branching on their own in order to avoid tall, leggy plants.

Fertilizing
Take care to not overfeed scented geraniums; overfeeding will diminish their fragrance and they actually don't need a lot of fertilizer. Any well balanced commercial plant food will do; natural fish emulsions and seaweed fertilizers are great for outside use. Use all of them at about 1/2 the strength recommended for houseplants. As with most plants, fertilize more often during periods of active growth, and not at all during the winter months.

Pruning
To prune or not to prune? Prune! Some plants may arrive looking as if they have just had a haircut, which is probably true, particularly late in the spring shipping season. These plants are not damaged - in fact, pruning encourages dense, lush growth. To truly appreciate these plants, you need to prune them on a regular basis.

Propagating
Starting new plants to add to your collection or to share with friends or neighbors is very simple. Use the plant material which you prune off your plants! Put the cut ends in damp sand and you will soon have new rooted plants. Plant into containers or into your garden when they're well rooted.

Winter care
Keep them indoors when it's cold outside! As they are easy to grow inside, scented geraniums make great fall and winter houseplants. They need only a sunny windowsill or a flourescent light and seem somehow to thrive on neglect. If you use a light, keep it turned on 12 hours per day during the winter. Some scented geraniums are large and bushy and will need regular pruning to keep under control.

A couple of weeks before it is time to move them outdoors in the spring, prune them back to a nice shape, repot if rootbound, and fertilize. Because of their lack of fussiness and tolerance of hot, dry conditions, scented geraniums are naturals for American summers. Plant them where and when you would plant standard geraniums - after danger of frost is past. Dig and re-pot about 3 weeks before the first fall frost, and gradually acclimatize them to the house before moving them inside for the winter.

Troubleshooting

Why are my geranium's leaves discolored?
If you notice mottling, streaking, curling, or abnormal color patterns on the leaves of your geraniums, they may have been infected with a viral disease carried by insect pests. Once infected, there is no cure; infected plants should be destroyed to prevent the spread of the virus. A regular program of watering and fertilization will keep plants healthy and best able to ward off viral infection.

What diseases affect geraniums and how can I treat them?
The first step in combating a plant disease or pest is to identify it. Here are some descriptions of common geranium diseases and their recommended treatments:

Southern root-knot nematodes: These microscopic, soil-dwelling worms can attack geranium plant roots and cause stunted growth, wilting and yellowing. Infested roots will display knots or swellings. These worms are most troublesome in warm-winter climates and sandy soils. Nematode infestation can be prevented with a regular program of watering and fertiliztion in conjunction with the use of compost to introduce beneficial soil organisms and crab or shrimp wastes to amend the soil. These wastes contain a substance which encourages the growth of nematode-attacking organisms. Once infested, a plant cannot be treated; however, the organisms remaining in the soil can be killed by solarization. Cover bare soil with clear plastic sheeting for three to four weeks. The build-up of solar heat under the sheeting will kill most pests and weed seeds in the top few inches of soil.

Leaf spot: Leaf spot diseases develop during warm, moist weather and cause leaves to display brown or black spots with yellow edges. Eventually, the leaves may drop and the stems may rot. Cut off and destroy infected plant parts as well as seriously affected plants and any soil their roots touch. Since the diseases overwinter on plant debris, if leaf spot occurs, keep the beds clean and replace the mulch. Because the diseases can spread via water, infected tools, or unwashed hands, avoid splashing water on the foliage and keep your hands and tools clean. Spacing plants widely will promote good air circulation.

Botrytis blight: Also known as gray mold, this fungal disease is spread by wind-brone spores and thrives in cool, moist weather. Stems and flowers will rot and develop gray mold, especially during damp, cloudy weather. To prevent its spread, destroy diseased plant parts. To prevent infection, space plants widely to promote good air circulation and allow the soil to dry out between waterings.

Pelagonium rust: This fungal disease causes small, yellow spots on leaf surfaces or powdery, orange spores on the undersides of leaves. Badly infected leaves and plants should be destroyed. Plants with minor infections can be sprayed with sulfur. Watering early in the day, widely spacing plants, and avoiding overhead watering will help prevent infection.

What pests commonly attack geraniums?

Some common geranium pests include the following:

Geranium aphids: These tiny, soft-bodied, pear-shaped insects suck plant juices and can spread viral diseases. They can be controlled by knocking them off the plants with a strong stream of water, an application of insecticidal soap (pay special attention to treating the undersides of leaves), spraying with horticultural oil, and releasing beneficial insects, such as parasitic wasps, ladybugs, green lacewings, and aphid midges.

Caterpillars: Several species of caterpillars chew geranium leaves. Caterpillars can be handpicked and destroyed or they can be controlled with an application of Bt (Bacillus thuringeinsis) which kills caterpillars, but does not harm beneficial insects. Cultivating the soil in winter will kill overwintering pupae. Attracting or releasing beneficial insects such as ladybugs and parasitic wasps will also help to control caterpillars.

Other pests: Common garden pests, such as mealybugs, whiteflies, and spider mites, can easily be controlled by knocking them off the plants using a strong spray of water, watering plants well during dry spells, and attracting or releasing beneficial insects. More severe infestations can be treated by applying insecticidal soap or neem.

What is the best way to overwinter geraniums?
It is almost impossible to overwinter geraniums outdoors in Zones colder than Zone 8, but quite simple to do so indoors. To overwinter entire geraniums or scented geraniums, dig them out of their beds or window boxes and place them in a bright spot inside. Make certain not to overwater your plants during their stay indoors. Some gardeners prefer to grow cuttings of their plants indoors rather than try to overwinter entire plants. To start to root cuttings, remove bottom leaves and place in a glass of plain water on a windowsill. Make sure to protect all overwintering geraniums and new cuttings from freezing temperatures which can occur if your plants are left too close to icy windows.

 

Why won't my geraniums bloom?
A common reason many flowering plants refuse to bloom is an overdose of nitrogen. Many commercial fertilizers are extremely high in nitrogen. While nitrogen is an essential element for vigorous plant growth, too much nitrogen encourages leafy growth at the expense of blooms. Try supplementing your soil with a balanced organic fertilizer such as our Rose and Flower Food. You might also consider having your soil tested through your local county extention agency. This is a free service which will help provide you with valuable soil improvement suggestions.

What should I do to get rid of the spent blossoms on my geraniums?
The best way to deal with old and withered flowers is to deadhead the plants. Deadheading can be done at any time of year, by cutting or pinching dead buds. You can use any hand tool, pruning shears, or even scissors -- just be sure to avoid new buds and blooms. Deadheading will freshen the appearance of your garden, as well as promote longer lasting and more abundant blooms.

If you are really interested in SGs, I know of one good book – Knowing, Growing and Enjoying Scented Geraniums by Jim Becker and Faye Brawner.  It is available both new and used on Amazon.com as I write this. (January 2006).

Click here to see our 140 varieties of Scented Geraniums.

Papa Geno

About Flowering Perennials

Almost every garden that we admire is built around a core of perennials. In most parts of the country, herbaceous perennials die to the ground at the end of the season, and then regrow from the same roots the following year. However, plants that are reliably perennial in the warmer parts of the U.S. may not overwinter in the colder parts, and some perennials must have a “cold period.” “Perennial” is a relative term. We grow perennials because they are generally low-care, dependable performers year after year, and because they provide a wide variety of color, texture and form to the garden.
               

Some perennials, such as astilbes, require deep, moist humousy soil and plenty of shade, while others such as English Lavender and German Iris struggle if they are grown anywhere except in full sun and well-drained soil. Perennials range in size from small mounds of green with tiny flowers to rangy giants that can take over your garden. Some should be pruned in spring, some in summer, some in fall. Many people think of perennials only as eye candy, but there are many perennial herbs to stimulate your senses of smell and taste as well.

The lifespan and bloom time of perennials. varies greatly. Some are relatively "short-lived" with a lifespan of just a few years. Others may live much longer or even, in the case of peonies, a lifetime. Bloom time may last for only two weeks each year, or may extend over two or three months. Some plants – such as reblooming daylilies and iris – will bloom in the spring and then again in the fall in many parts of America.

There are so many different species and named varieties of perennials to choose from that no one can know all of them. Experienced perennial gardeners rely on many resources for information and inspiration – books, magazines, plant catalogs and – more recently - the Internet. Many sources provide photographs, cultural information, a description of growth habits, bloom time, color and characteristics of the plants. A good general book about perennials is an excellent place to start, and we can recommend: (Fill in the blank with info about BHG perennial books.)

Local resources are often the best. Nearly every county, and every Land Grant University in America has extension offices that can provide you with horticultural information specific to your own locale. The gardeners down the street or across town are also great source of information. Nothing beats seeing a plant in a garden setting, where you can observe how it is being used. There's just no way to know how a plant will do for you unless you give it a try. If it turns out to be too tall, the color is wrong, or the plant doesn't thrive, you can always move it and try something different.

 Perennial Planting Styles

Few if any "perennial gardens" contain only herbaceous perennials. Woody plants, such as shrubs, roses, and trees, are often incorporated to provide a backdrop for the perennial plants, or are used to fill in and give mass to the bed or border. Many gardeners include annuals or biennials in their perennial gardens to provide splashes of dependable color throughout the season. Bulbs are added for early spring color and ornamental grasses for their interesting textures and late-season beauty.

Traditionally, perennial gardens have been laid out in one of two ways: a border or an island bed. A border is typically a long, rectangular flower bed that is about two to four feet deep. The classic English perennial border, which was so popular in the first half of the 20th century, was often as much as eight feet deep and 200-feet long. But for most home gardeners, a better size is about three feet deep and about 12 to 15 feet long.

Borders are usually viewed from only one side, and are located in front of a backdrop. This backdrop may be created with shrubs, a hedge, a fence or a stone wall. A well-defined front edge is important. You may design a solo border, or a matched pair. When selecting plants, keep in mind that borders usually look best when there is a repeating theme of plants and colors.

An island bed is a garden that floats in a "sea" of lawn. The shape is irregular, with gentle curves and no sharp corners. It is usually designed to be viewed from all sides, with the tallest plants positioned along the center line of the bed, and the shortest plants around the edges. Island beds look best when they are generous in size. A good size for an island bed is 8-by-15 feet, with the tallest plants reaching a height of about five feet.

Of course perennial flower gardens sometimes look nothing like a traditional border or island bed. Rock gardens break all the rules, for the objective is usually to create an irregular, natural-looking rock outcropping where tiny alpine plants can be featured.

Shade gardens are often irregularly-shaped, because they follow the natural shade patterns of the trees above. Another emerging style for perennial gardens is the large, free-form garden. In this case, the garden is defined by a series of meandering paths that lead the viewer right into and then through the plantings. Perennial flowers can also be mixed in among shrubs, planted around your mailbox, used in woodland or streamside plantings, or even planted in containers.

Arranging Your Plants
The appearance of a perennial garden depends as much upon the shapes of your plants and how they are arranged, as upon their colors.

Height
You'll want to place the tallest plants in the back of the border, or in the center of an island bed, then work down in height, ending with the shortest plants around the edges of an island bed or the front of a border. Books and labels usually list the average mature height for a plant in bloom. Remember that many plants hold their flowers well above the foliage. This means that when the plant is out of bloom, it may be much shorter than the specified height.

Heights are also an average. When grown in poor, dry soil, a plant may be only half as tall as the same plant grown in rich, moist soil. Be prepared to move your plants around once you see how tall (or short) they really grow. Even the most experienced gardeners rearrange their plants (usually more than once!).

Width
A plant's width, or spread, is just as important as its height. Width figures given in books or on labels are also an average. The actual width of a plant will vary depending on soils, geographical location and the age of the plant. Be careful about locating slow-growers very close to rapid spreaders. The former may all but disappear by the end of the first growing season.

Spacing
Patience is a virtue, but when most people plant a perennial garden, their goal is to create a full effect as soon as possible. The challenge is to plant thickly, but not break the bank, or create a crowded, unhealthy situation two or three years down the line. When planting a grouping or "drift" of the same kind of plants, you can put them closer together to create a massed look more quickly.

Another trick is to place short-lived plants between slower-growing, long-lived plants. Most peonies, for example, have an ultimate spread of three feet, but it may take seven years for them to reach this size. While you're waiting, you could interplant with Shasta daisies, a fast-growing, short-lived plant that will provide a full look and plenty of flowers while the peonies get themselves established.

Drifts versus specimens
A garden planted with groupings of five or more plants of the same variety will display drifts of repeating colors and textures. In this type of garden, plants are used primarily as design elements that add up to a pleasing and integrated visual effect.

At the opposite end of the spectrum is the collector's garden, filled with onezies and twozies of all different kinds of plants. These are the gardens of people who simply love plants and want to have one of everything. The look of this type of garden may be a jumble of colors and textures, and maintenance is usually more challenging, but these gardens are about plants first, and design second.

How to Select Perennials

When it comes to deciding which perennials to plant, most of us are not very deliberate about our choices. We succumb to a luscious photo in a catalog, stumble upon an irresistible beauty at the nursery, or a neighbor sends us home with a bag full of cast-offs. If you ever do set out to make an informed and deliberate choice, here are some of the things that you should think about.

Your Site
Perennials, like all plants, will live longer and be healthier and more floriferous if they are planted in a location that suits them. Does your garden have sandy soil or is it heavy clay? Is it in the sun or shade? Is the soil moist or droughty? Is the pH high, low, or neutral? Is the site flat, gently sloped, or steep? A good reference book can help you figure out which plants will probably be happy in the growing conditions that you can provide.

Hardiness
If a plant is not hardy in your growing zone, it will not survive the winter. If you don't know which zone you live in, check a USDA Hardiness Zone Map. Though knowing your zone is very important, altitude, wind exposure, soils and snow cover can have a dramatic impact on plant hardiness, effectively shifting the hardiness rating for your garden by as much as a full zone.

For best results, choose plants that are well within your zone. You will probably be tempted by those that are at or even just beyond your growing zone. If you can afford to take the gamble (financially and emotionally), it can be very rewarding to discover that you can grow a couple of Zone 5 plants in your Zone 4 garden. Where snow cover is not dependable, a winter mulch of leaves or straw can help marginally hardy plants survive a cold winter. Well-drained soil is also a benefit. During the winter, heavy, wet soils can heave and damage plant roots.

Northern gardeners concern themselves with the minimum temperatures that a plant will tolerate, but Southern gardeners must pay attention to the upper end of zone ratings. Many popular perennials, including lupines, peonies, and garden phlox, will not perform well in warm climates. They must be exposed to a period of subfreezing temperatures to produce a good display of flowers. Other perennials will simply not tolerate long periods of heat and humidity.

Color
In working with color, aim for a balance of integration and contrast. Too much of the same color can be monotonous, yet a cacophony of different colors can be jarring rather than pleasing to the eye. You may want to organize your garden around one color; or choose a theme such as pastels, cool colors, or hot colors. You can also experiment with different color themes in different parts of your garden--hot colors by the front door and cool colors in a quieter part of the yard.

Remember that few perennials are in bloom for more than a couple of weeks each year. Most of the time, plants are green, and it is their leaf form and foliage texture that are the "color" in your garden.

Bloom time
A perennial may be in bloom for two weeks a year or for as long as three months. If your objective is all-season color, choose several plants from each bloom season. When selecting plants for a spring garden, concentrate on those that bloom during April and May. After that peak, the garden may lack color for the rest of the season, but you will have achieved a spectacular spring display. For best effect, group at least two or three different varieties of plants together that will bloom at the same time.

Remember that specified bloom time is only an average. In California, April may be the peak bloom time for bearded iris, yet in Vermont, the same plant will not bloom until early June. Keep a record of when various perennials bloom and you'll create and invaluable reference. No book, no matter how good, will be as accurate as your own observations about when plants bloom and how they perform in your own garden.

Seedling, potted or field-grown
When purchasing perennials, try to get the largest, most mature plant that you can afford. The bigger the plant, the more quickly it will fill out and the sooner it will begin blooming. Typically plants are available in pot sizes ranging from 3-inch diameter to 12-inch diameter. Pot-grown perennials can be planted from spring through fall, and will suffer minimal transplant shock.

Some mail-order companies ship plants bareroot (without soil). Bareroot perennials are usually available in spring and fall. The roots must be kept moist, and the plant should be put into the garden as soon as possible (within a couple of days). Once the plant is in the ground and has emerged from its dormant state, it will ta